Mongol silk robe
Date:
Thirteenth to early fourteenth century
Medium:
Silk,
Silver or gold thread
Dimensions:
H 140 cm
Description:
This short, flaring robe was worn by a Mongol (probably Ilkhanid) man in Central Asia in the thirteenth or early fourteenth century. The short robe, worn over trousers, facilitated horseback riding but was not donned exclusively by equestrians. Woven of silk thread wrapped with gold, the fabric and the excessively long sleeves were signs of wealth. The sleeves would have been visible under a sleeveless overgarment; the two are usually depicted together in manuscripts and wall paintings. The pattern consists of green rosettes encircled by pseudoscript; another band of illegible script appears at the shoulder, the more usual location for these bands in Mongol garments. The robe is lined with plain, lower-quality white silk.
The wide waist, and the amount of gold used to emphasize it, reflects the tradition of belts as indicators of Mongol status. Tiny knotted buttons and loops close the garment on the wearer's right side. Chinese texts long associated this with "proper" fashion, opposed to the "barbarian" (i.e., non-Chinese) practice of fastening on the left side (Arab caftans, by contrast, closed in the front).
As the Mongols expanded their empire, they spared skilled weavers and moved them to multiple royal workshops. Weavers from Iran probably worked alongside those from China. These golden textiles were highly prized not only in Central Asia but also in Europe, where panni tartarici, Tartar (Mongol) cloths, were carried along the Silk Routes and are documented in noble and papal inventories. The name “Tartar” comes from Tartarus, the underworld in Greek mythology
The wide waist, and the amount of gold used to emphasize it, reflects the tradition of belts as indicators of Mongol status. Tiny knotted buttons and loops close the garment on the wearer's right side. Chinese texts long associated this with "proper" fashion, opposed to the "barbarian" (i.e., non-Chinese) practice of fastening on the left side (Arab caftans, by contrast, closed in the front).
As the Mongols expanded their empire, they spared skilled weavers and moved them to multiple royal workshops. Weavers from Iran probably worked alongside those from China. These golden textiles were highly prized not only in Central Asia but also in Europe, where panni tartarici, Tartar (Mongol) cloths, were carried along the Silk Routes and are documented in noble and papal inventories. The name “Tartar” comes from Tartarus, the underworld in Greek mythology
Relevant Textbook Chapter(s):
9
Repository and Online Resources:
• The robe is in the collection of the Aga Khan Museum, Toronto (AKM677).
Image Credits:
Aga Khan Museum, CC BY-NC 2.5 CA
